<p>Even before the pehlwans square off in the mud, the air is already wrestling with a mix of bruised earth and olive oil. Men of all ages and build, gleaming like magazine models from head to toe, prep for a day under the July sun in Edirne.</p>
<p>For over six centuries, men have gathered in this northwestern Turkish city for Kırkpınar, the yağlı güreş or oil wrestling festival for what is considered the national sport. It has been around for so long that it was ancient by the time the O